Making A Bucket Thresher

These directions will help you build a bucket thresher, a simple tool for cleaning seeds. A 5 gallon bucket thresher is an appropriate capacity for a medium garden to a small farm. At 2025 prices, materials are around $20.

If you prefer a video tutorial, you can find one Here

If you want a kit for the small parts you can purchase one Here

Materials list:

• 1 5-gallon bucket with lid that is easy to put on and remove

• ~24" of 3/8" threaded rod

• 2 3/8” nuts. In the photos, i use 1 nylon lock nut and 1 regular nut, but using 2 nylon lock nuts is better.

• 2 2" x 3/8" washers

• 1 heavy 2" washer (either 3/8” - 1/2” interior hole will both work. If you can’t find a heavy washer, an additional 2” x 3/8” washer will work)

• 4 18" pieces of weed whacker string

  Tools:

• Something to cut threaded rod (or have an employee cut the rod to the right length at the hardware store)

• Drill bit approximately the same size as the weed whacker string

• Drill Press or Power Drill (you will need a drill to run the thresher)

• Wrenches and/or Vice Grips

• File, sandpaper or other tool to remove burrs after drilling (optional)

Assembly:

1. Drill 8 holes in the heavy washer based on this pattern. Use a drill bit the same diameter as your weed whacker string (slightly larger is ok). A drill press does this job very easily, if you don’t have access to one, it’s probably a good idea to clamp the washer to a piece of scrap wood for easier drilling.

2. Thread a nut onto the rod an inch or two and add one plain washer. In this picture, I have used a regular nut, but a lock nut would be better.

Fold your weed whacker string pieces in half and poke the ends through the holes you drilled in the heavy washer.

Slide string + washer assembly onto the rod, followed by the other plain washer, then a lock nut.

With one lock nut at the bottom end of the rod, tighten the other nut towards it, sandwiching the washers together. As you tighten, ensure that the weed whacker strings are evenly spaced and pointing away from the rod. I find it easiest to hold the rod with vice grips and tighten the nut with a wrench.

Drill a hole in the center of the bucket lid, big enough for the threaded rod to go in and out easily. This hole will get pretty chewed up with regular use, but you can easily reinforce it by drilling another hole in a scrap of plywood and affixing it to the lid with short screws. You can add an additional washer to make it even more durable.

Use:

Place unthreshed seeds in the bucket. If they are attached to a lot of plant material, you may want to hand pick the pods/capsules off, or run them through a ½” screen.

Poke the bucket thresher through hole in the lid, and put the lid on the bucket.

Insert the rod into the chuck of your power drill, and tighten the chuck.

Put one foot on the bucket and run the drill while moving thresher up/down and side to side. Easily threshed seeds may only need 10-15 seconds, tougher seeds may need more. If there is excessive plant material in the bucket, you might need to remove it and thresh again. The highest speed on your drill may damage delicate seeds, start on slow or medium with unfamiliar seeds and move to faster speeds as needed.

These seeds are now ready to winnow using screens, an Open Source Seed Cleaner, bowls and wind/fan or other methods. For more info see this video

Extra Tips:

• this design works for wet cleaning as well! If you are careful you can skip the lid when doing wet cleaning.

• For faster threshing you can build 2 thresher heads on the same rod.

• If you prefer, you can use wooden discs instead of metal washers, which leaves room for more weed wacker strings and works a little faster.

What are Local ecotypes and why are they important?

Local ecotypes are plants whose genetic heritage is of local, wild stock. Many species native range covers huge areas, often spanning the continent, or even multiple continents. So a population from the northeast might be significantly different from a population of the same species from the southwest. I see planting local ecotypes as being important for 2 reasons, first they are likely to be better adapted to the local conditions and will therefore be more likely to thrive and second the vast majority of seed stock is produced in other ecoregions, meaning that the local populations and ecotype are not only under threat from loss of habitat, but also by getting edged out by human planting of the same species from other places. This second one might not make a huge difference, but there is a lot we don’t know, so erring on the side of preserving biodiversity wherever possible seems like a good idea. There may be other implications of planting seeds from other ecoregions, like the possibility of things like bloom time being out of step with the seasons and therefore out of sequence with local pollinators, but I still need to read up on those subjects.

There are lots of different ways to draw the lines for what the local ecotype is, one popular option is to use the EPA Ecoregions maps. If a seed or plant from Edgewood Nursery is marked local ecotype they are from EPA ecoregions 8.1.8, 8.1.7 or 5.3.1 with preference given to geographically close to the nursery.

Because I want to minimize pressure on local populations of native plants, I do not sell wild collected seeds or plants. Instead I collect very small amounts of seeds from wild populations or purchase/trade for local ecotype seeds that others have cultivated. I grow out these seeds in the gardens at the nursery and the seeds produced at the nursery get sold as seed packets or grown into nursery stock.

These species are often available as local ecotype seeds or plants from Edgewood Nursery:

Yarrow (Achillea millefolium), White Snakeroot (Ageratina altissima), Meadow Garlic (Allium canadense), Pearly Everlasting (Anaphalis margaritacea), Groundnut (Apios americana) Red Columbine (Aquilegia canadensis) Rootbeer Berry / American Spikenard (Aralia racemosa) Aronia (Aronia melanocarpa) Coastal Sweetpepperbush (Clethra alnifolia) Boneset (Eupatorium perfoliatum) Spotted Joe-Pye Weed (Eutrochium maculatum) Wild Strawberry (Fragaria virginiana) Cow Parsnip / Pushki (Heracleum maximum), Flax-leaved Stiff-aster (Ionactis linariifolia) Beach-Head Iris (Iris hookeri) Blueflag Iris (Iris versicolor) Wood Nettle (Laportea canadensis) Atlantic Lovage (Ligusticum scoticum) Cardinal Flower (Lobelia cardinalis) Switchgrass (Panicum virgatum), Pokeweed (Phytolacca americana) Self-Heal (Prunella vulgaris var.
lanceolata) Pussy Willow (Salix discolor) Black Willow Salix nigra Black Elderberry (Sambucus nigra) Red Elderberry (Sambucus racemosa) Seaside Goldenrod (Solidago sempervirens), Blue-Stem Goldenrod (Solidago caesia), New England Aster (Symphyotrichum novae-angliae) Wood Aster (Symphyotrichum spp) Foamflower (Tiarella cordifolia) Blue Vervain (Verbena hastata) New York Ironweed (Vernonia noveboracensis) Maple-Leaf Viburnum (Viburnum acerifolium) Woolly Blue Violet (Viola sororia) Golden Alexanders (Zizia aurea)

There are many species that I am still searching for local ecotype seeds of, if you can help me find any of these, please let me know. Some of these species native ranges don’t quite reach as far north and east as here, so the local ecotype I’m interested in is from the north-east corner of their range.

Stratification

Stratification

Some seeds, most often perennials from temperate climate, need 1-4 months of cold damp conditions before they will germinate. This is called stratification. This makes sure the seeds don’t sprout right after ripening, only to be immediately killed by oncoming winter. The best way to accomplish this varies by seed size, and your conditions and materials may vary, so use whatever method makes the most sense to you. If you prefer audio instructions, you can hear about this topic in this episode of Propaganda by the Seed

Community Pot Method

My preferred way to stratify small seeds is to plant them in the fall or winter in community pots. This can happen quite late into the winter, just make sure there are enough cold days left to meet the stratification needs of the seeds you are planting. For instance, you wouldn’t want to plant seeds that need 100+ days of cold stratification in March.

1: get your materials and containers together, I like squat plastic pots, but you can use recycled plastic or wax paper containers, just make sure there are drainage holes. Clay pots can be risky as they tend to break in freeze thaw cycles.

2. Fill the pots 1/2-3/4 of the way with compost free of weed seeds, if you don’t have compost you can use potting soil. But I like compost because it’s more environmentally friendly and provides nutrients and a microbiome to the growing plants. Either pack the compost firmly or water it into the pots.

3. Add a 1/2”-2” deep layer of potting soil, this helps seeds get started because it helps keep a even moisture level and has a finer texture then compost. Pack it down firmly.

4. Place your seeds on the soil, hopefully spreading them evenly around the pot.

5a. Medium or large seeds I cover with a thin layer of potting soil, the depth should be roughly equal to the diameter of the seed.

5b. Small seeds I cover with a very light layer of sand. Tiny or light dependent seeds I press into the surface with just a scant sprinkle of sand.

6. Be sure to label your pots. I write the name, date, seed source and sun exposure.

7. Thanks to Buzz Ferver for the heads up on these awesome Listo Grease pencils! They write on nearly any surface, last multiple seasons, are cheap and refillable... generally a excellent investment for any gardener and a must have for the small nursery. White grease is better for most pots. Never use a sharpie to mark pots, they fade much too quickly. Paint markers are OK.

8. Once your seeds are covered and pots are labeled, set them outdoors somewhere level (so seeds don’t wash away) and somewhere that they won’t gets stepped on, even after they get buried in snow. A root cellar, cold basement, or unheated building is also a fine place to leave pots, just make sure the soil stays damp. If you are planting a large seed, let’s say bean size or larger, i would recommend covering the pot with 1/2” wire mesh to prevent animals from getting in there to eat the seeds.

9. Seeds should pop up in spring or early summer , depending on species. However, some species are ‘double dormant’ and require sitting out through 2 winters. Many species will need minimal care, but you will get better results if you check daily and water as needed. Before seeds sprout they can be in any light conditions, once they are up they should be moved to their preferred amount of sun. Once a set of true leaves appear most plants can be moved to individual pots or final positions in the ground, but you can also let them grow in community pots for a whole season. The pot of Penstemon pictured has around 20 plants in it and I already transplanted about 20 out of that pot. So about 40 plants from a single packet of seed and less then 1’ sq. Of growing space.

Plastic Bag Method

This is my preferred method for large seeds, but can be useful for small seeds as well. There are 2 issues that are common with this method:

• Mold, especially if you are using a refrigerator your stratifying seeds may become moldy, which is a bad thing and may kill all the seeds. To avoid this, try to use clean materials, clean hands and clean work surfaces. Mold also seems to be less of a issue at temperatures close to, but not below freezing. Another tip is to not start stratification too early, if the seeds require 30 days of cold stratification, plan to stratify for 30 days, because if you stratify for 60 days that’s a extra 30 days where they might get moldy. Because this is a potential issue, it’s best to check on stratifying seeds every couple weeks. If you find mold starting, you can wash the seeds in dilute bleach or hydrogen peroxide and return to stratification with clean material or, if stratification needs have been met plant right away.

• Early germination, some seeds will germinate at stratification temperatures, if you notice this happening, the best thing you can do is plant the seeds ASAP.

The primary reason I favor this method for large seeds is that it makes it easy to protect the seeds from being eaten by rodents (which is a big problem with large seeds, especially nuts) it also allows seeds to stay at cold temps, but avoid freezing, which can be bad or even fatal for certain types of seeds. Another advantage is this method can be done with a refrigerator in places or a times when the outdoor temps aren’t cold enough to stratify seeds.

For small seeds.

For small seeds I usually use paper towel and small zip-lock bags

Get the paper towel wet, squeeze out excess water. It should be damp all the way through, but not dripping wet. Fold in half and sprinkle on seeds.

Fold seeds into the damp paper towel and put in the bag. Don’t forget to label! If you are forgetful (like me) you may want to mark your calendar with the date you are supposed to sow those seeds. Store these seeds somewhere cold, but not frozen. Refrigerator or root cellar are the most common options.

For large seeds

If the seeds have been dried for storage they should be soaked in water to re hydrate them. Viable seeds usually sink (NOT like this photo), so if you have a few floaters you can usually cull them, but this isn’t always the case. Whenever possible i prefer to keep large seeds is cool damp storage. This is for 2 reasons, some seeds do not survive drying (these are called recalcitrant seeds, think acorns and chestnuts) and some seeds appear to develop deep dormancy upon drying.

After soaking12-48hrs, rinse off the seed and allow to air dry until the surface is dry.

For nuts and other very large seeds i prefer damp sawdust to help buffer the humidity. Prunus species tend to germinate too early if extra material is added and so should be stored damp and cold, but without extra material. Other options are sand, peat and coco coir.

For smaller seeds peat or sand are best. If you opt mix tiny seeds with a material rather then putting them on damp paper you will probably loose them in the material, so use sand and spread the sand/seed mixture across soil when sowing.

The way I collect and process Acorns

Acorns have been eaten by people around the world (although mostly in the northern hemisphere) for millennia. Since many people have switched to a grain based diet (by choice, convenience or because of colonization) acorn eating has largely fallen by the wayside. Some commercial acorn production continues on a small scale, including in Korea, Morocco and Italy. Home and community scale harvest of wild acorns continues in many places. Where I live the most common acorn to eat is that of the Northern Red Oak (Quercus rubra). On this page I will share the method by which I harvest and process acorns, I suspect this process would work ok with nearly any acorn, but I haven’t tried with other species. Many thanks to Chris Knapp, Little John, Lisa Willey and Mihku Paul all of whom I learned from or with about eating acorns.

Step 1: Collecting

Acorns should be collected from the ground, either by hand or using tools. The season for Red Oak acorns in quite long, usually starting in August and going until the acorns germinate in the spring, although they are best collected as soon as possible. Parks and suburban lawns are particularly easy to harvest from because of the manicured grass, just beware of the potential of lawn pesticides and/or dog waste.

Acorns you want

No cap, no cracks, no holes, light on top.

Acorns you don’t want

Discard acrons with caps on, with holes, with cracks as well as vaguely acorn shaped rocks. Cracked ones can be ok, but should be checked for bugs or rot if you choose to keep them.

This is my favorite acorn gathering tool.

The Garden Weasel small nut gatherer, it costs $43 and is available locally at Paris Farmers Union a cheaper option is the Duke Pecan 0200 which costs $17, also available at PFU. Tools are not necessary, but they do speed up the process of collecting.

Step 2: Drying and Storage

If you didn’t check the acorns as you gathered them, give them a once over to check for any that don’t seem fit to store. Drying should be done on shallow trays or screen, with acorns only one nut deep in a place with decent air circulation and protected from rodents. Once dry the acorns will store in their shells for at least 2 years, probably longer. Ideally they should be stored in a sealed container as pests like pantry moths or rodents can get into them if they are stored in the open. Drying shrinks the nutmeat inside shell, making them easier to separate, so even if you will be cracking them right away, it helps to dry them first.

Drying acorns

Air circulation is important, so shallow trays or screens are best.

step 3: Cracking and Sorting

When you are ready to process a batch of acorns into meal or flour, the next step is to crack them. This can be done simply, using 2 rocks, a hammer, or a hand powered nut cracker. As with most things a fancier tool can speed up the process, this tool is the Davebilt #43 Nutcracker which costs $160, they work very quickly, so it’s reasonable to share one among several people. If the acorns are cracked with a davebilt, there are usually a few stuck in half shells, rubbing handfuls of cracked nuts between your hands should free them. Now dump them in a bowl or bucket of water, the shells will mostly float to the top and can be easily removed. Pour through a sieve or colander and then dump on a tray or clean surface and hand pick out any remaining shell fragments. If a few shell fragments get missed it won’t hurt the final product.

Acorn Nutmeats

After floating off the shells and picking out the fragments.

Step 4: Grinding

In order to easily leach the tannins out out the acorn, it’s best to grind it up to increase the surface area. I aim for a rough grind at this phase, basically like a cornmeal texture, a little finer or courser is ok too. I put the nut meat in a good blender, cover with a inch or two of water and grind them up that way. If you don’t have a blender up to the task a hand crank burr mill does a good job as well, but only one with metal grinding burrs should be used as the high fat content of acorns can really mess up the grinding stones used in nice flour mills.

Step 5: Leaching

All acorns that grow in my area have enough tannins to be inedible to humans without leaching. There are many ways to do the leaching, I have experimented widely and this is my favorite way. Take a clean 5 gallon bucket and line it with a clean pillowcase (that you don’t mind messing up), put up to a gallon of ground acorn nut meat in the pillowcase. Now fill the bucket with water and let it stand for 5-12 hrs. Pull the pillow case out and allow the water to drain into the bucket. Dump the bucket and replace the pillowcase. Fill with water again. After 3 changes of water, each with several hours of soaking, take a small taste of the flour, if it tastes bitter, do another soak. Red Oaks usually take 5-6 soaks to have no perceptible bitterness. For a smaller batch, just put the ground acorns in any vessel and cover with water, carefully pouring off the water every 5-12 hrs and replacing it with fresh. With the small batch method it’s usually good to leave the last bit of cloudy liquid as there are oils in there that may get reincorporated in to the flour at the end.

5 Gallon Bucket Method

The flecks on top of the water are bits of the thin brown skin that covers the nutmeat inside the shell, they can be discarded with the water.

Step 6: Drying the flour

Once you can’t taste any bitter tannins left its time to drain and dry the flour, if it’s a small batch and you want to use it right away there is no need to dry it. I hang my pillowcase full of wet flour up to dry until it stops dripping, then spread the damp flour on baking sheets in a thin layer and put them on a shelf in the room with the wood stove, stirring at least daily until totally dry. Anywhere with good air-flow and protected from pests should be ok, near a heat source is ideal. In cool damp climates you may need to use a dehydrator or very low temp oven to get the flour all the way dry. Once dry the flour should be stored in a sealed container. Acorn flour has a fair amount of fat in it, so it has potential to go rancid, so making batches that you will use up in a few months is a good practice. Storing in a sealed container in the freezer will also slow rancidity.

Acorn Flour drying on baking sheets.

Be considerate of your family/housemates by not using ALL the baking sheets to dry acorn flour.

Step 7: Cooking with Acorn Flour

This is the fun part! Acorn flour can be used on its own, but doesn’t really hold together very well without being mixed with other flours. Many recipes work well with a 1:1 mix of acorn and wheat flour. If you leached a course ground flour you probably want to regrind it to a fine flour for baking, or leave it course for a porridge. Many delicious acorn recipes have been lost and many have yet to be developed, so please experiment widely and share your recipes when they turn out well. Here are some photos of acorn foods to inspire you.

Acorn Banana Bread

1:1 Acorn to Wheat flour.

Acorn / Oat Porridge

1:1:1 Acorn meal to Steel cut Oats to Mixed dry fruit

Acorn Sourdough Bread

75% Acorn flour, 25% wheat. Phenomenal flavor and texture. Probably the most exciting item for me personally. If I ever scale up my acorn processing to the point where it becomes a large part of my diet I would eat this every day. Cooked by Lisa Willey.

Fermented Acorn Nut Cheeses

Pine needle coated on the left, Sumac and wild mushroom on the right. Made from Acorns, Saurkraut Juice and nutritional yeast. Cooked by Lisa Wiley

Acorn Tempeh

Acorn Tempeh 50% Acorns 50% Soy beans. Very very tasty, a application for acorns. Cooked by Lisa Willey

Acorn / Wild Blueberry Muffinlets

acorns, blueberries a little grain flour and honey. Cooked by Lisa Willey

COVID19 Pandemic and Edgewood Nursery // Dystaenia (Dystaenia takesimana)

Well, the pandemic has arrived in Maine. Luckily, it seems to not spread at high rates yet and lots of proactive measures are being taken, so hopefully the spread will be slow enough avoid any worst case scenarios. All edgewood nursery events for the next couple weeks have been canceled and I suspect that will be the case for the next couple months. I will still be shipping plants and seeds as normal. I'm hoping that local people will still want to buy plants this spring and until conditions improve I will be asking people to order plants by email/website/phone and pick up their pre-paid/pre-packed order at the nursery. Once regular open hours I will also be available by phone to help you choose what plants might fit your situation, which is a big part of what I normally offer to in person customers. If the weather keeps being warm, I expect the nursery to open / begin shipping plants in the first week of April. In the mean time seeds and tubers are in stock and ready to ship.

Photos: Dystaenia
(Dystaenia takesimana), Korean common name Seombadi (섬바디), pronounced like the English word "somebody". Always one of the first harvestable plants in my spring garden, sometimes even before the snow melts. These highly nutritious leaves (see photo 3) taste a lot like celery and are the best perennial substitute for that plant that I have tried. Dystaenia comes from Korea, where they primarily use the leaves as animal fodder, but occasionally as a food for humans or in traditional medicine (in this case i think it's roots that are used. Leaves have a long harvest window and when the blooms come out mid-summer they attract huge amounts of beneficial insects. Generally a trouble free plant with a deep gnarly root system, the only real problem I have run into is voles eating the roots. Available soon as a 1gallon plant.